Because the OP is not doing this on a regular production basis, I suggested oil based polyurethane as it is a favorite of mine for handrails (and widely available in pretty reliable formulas). I really think that it is much easier to handle than water based finishes for handrails (though most of mine are done on site).
For new wood, up to four or five coats may be required due to wood pores and their propensity to absorb liquid. Wood previously finished with polyurethane will generally require a lesser number of coats. Inspect the dried final coat for imbedded debris bumps by viewing the railing in direct light at varying angles.
Avoid most water base finishes for handrails or use them as undercoats because many are very prone to softening from oils on people’s hands. Most polyurethanes are much more resistant. CV's are probably good but usually overly difficult given the difficulties involved in the process...
Applying polyurethane to stair railings will protect wood from humidity, dirt and abrasion and keep it looking new for many years.
Sounds like the poly might have picked up some dust. Try "sanding" its surface with a piece of kraft paper (for example, a piece of a brown paper bag), which is just abrasive enough to polish the surface.
Polyurethane is probably the best bet, for constant color and the least amount of wear. It can be applied in almost any fashion (spray, brush, etc.), but for handrails I like the wipe-on method the best for even coverage and to avoid brush strokes.
To fix cratering of polyurethane finish you need to sand the surface lightly and wipe the surface with a clean cloth and re-apply a thin polyurethane coat. Once it is completely dried, you won't notice any craters on the surface.
Clean off the surface with a damp rag see if there is an even surface, If the poly is thick, you can sand again and if it not, then add another coat of poly. Now, work your way up the grits and check the surface to see if there is an even sheen. If you like the sheen level, you can stop and buff it with wax.
Best wipe on poly for stairs – Minwax Wipe-on Polyurethane The Minwax wipe-on is an excellent water-based wipe on Poly and probably the best polyurethane for stair railings.
0:115:30prepping the stairs and removing polyurethane - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipSo you don't crack the would stretch the resin nails up. And take them off and then they'll be a lotMoreSo you don't crack the would stretch the resin nails up. And take them off and then they'll be a lot easier to to strip the urethane from and sand with them being off so we've got about Oh.
And there are two ways on how to get a smooth polyurethane finish through sanding.Dry sanding the final coat, which is what most people are familiar with. It involves only the use of sandpaper.Wet sanding, which uses a combination of wet/dry sandpaper and mineral spirits or water.
Apply only one thin coat. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further.
“The most common causes for bubbles are shaking the can and improper brush prep—you don't stick a brush into the finish without first soaking the bristles in mineral spirits, for oil-based polys, or in water, for water-based polys.
1:322:57Applying Poly (with no streaks) - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipYou just take some high grit sandpaper. And you just touch it up you don't want to rub too hard onMoreYou just take some high grit sandpaper. And you just touch it up you don't want to rub too hard on it because you don't want to take off your layer that you just put on.
*How Do I Remove Brush Strokes from the 3rd Coat of High Performance Polyurethane? Sand down the final finish with a 220-grit foam sanding pad, and then add another layer of General Finishes High Performance PolyurethaneTopcoat. Apply liberally than you did previously without heavy back-brushing.
Sand the surface to remove polyurethane. You can simply use fine steel wool. You can also use 150-grit sandpaper. The sandpaper will smooth it out and take off the last of the polyurethane. The after wash should have taken off most of the polyurethane, which is why you shouldn't need a heavy-duty sandpaper.
Sand lightly with 240-grit sandpaper between coats, then let the last coat dry for at least 24 hours. This is standard practice with any wood finishing job, and is nothing out of the ordinary.
Finish up with a coat of paste wax, also buffed out under power, and you’ll have the smoothest possible finish that can be put on wood. You won’t be able to resist running your hand over it.
You don’t know how thick the existing finish is, so take it easy. As for your coffee table, yes, it’s definitely a candidate for buffing, even now. Use the 320-grit paper on a foam block to knock off the dust bumps, the go at it with a “fine” 3M rubbing pad.
The dirty little secret of the wood finishing world is that waterbased urethane is significantly harder to apply well than its oil-based ancestor. Buffing really does make it easy to get superb results on wood finished with polyurethane. That’s what you’ll learn about here.
When a oil base polyurethane had not dried in the allotted time it needs exchange of air. Another words the air inside needs to be exchanged with the air inside. Air can only absorb so much moisture and if it is humid or raining the air can be very wet. Heat can always help the problem by drying up the air.
The white will come back after the water is dry; however let it dry over night. The next day you can re-coat the floor or furniture. Re-coating: when re-coating It Can Not be done in spots even if using the same finish. The entire area needs to be redone.
And yes, by sealing you won't get any raised grain if you happen to use a water based finish over an oil based stain. So, IMHO.... using a sanding sealer (of some type) is normally a good thing no matter what you are finishing if using a film type finish. As for what you should use.... that's really up to you.
Waterbased polyurethane can be used as a wiping medium. I don't use a sealer or shellac. Any "grain raising" that occurs is usually sanded back to smooth with the sanding of in between coats.
The trick with 2K poly is to catalyze only what you will spray in about 20 minutes, for it starts to thicken by then and is difficult to spray. Otherwise it is a fantastic product that I recommend highly. It's called Eurobild.
2K urethane is extremely durable, but expensive and somewhat more hazardous/less convenient. Duravar is good stuff but I would prefer the ease of application of the polyurethane over either of these and have found it quite satisfactory in long term performance (basically 0 complaints over many years of use).
Handrails come in a variety of materials, including aluminum, wrought iron, and wood. Wood is a commonly used material, but wood presents many issues not found in alternative handrail materials. 1. Often Made of Cheap Materials. Wood handrails are often made of softer woods like pine to cut down on cost. Unfortunately, this also cuts down on ...
The screws themselves have to be fairly short so they don’t puncture the top of the handrail. Because the screws are short, the brackets have a tendency to loosen over time, creating a handrail that doesn’t provide the level of safety necessary for those using the stairs or ramp.
Wood is a hygroscopic material, meaning that it is altered by the amount of moisture in and around it. When it loses moisture, it shrinks. When it gains moisture, it swells. Dry or humid air, even indoors, can affect wood handrails, causing them to swell, shrink, and warp over time. Once a handrail is warped, fixing it is very difficult, ...
If you mismeasure, the brackets need to be removed and repositioned, leaving holes in the handrail. 6. Requires Sanding, Sealing, and Staining.
After sanding, staining requires a well-ventilated area and the possibility of multiple coats. Finally, the wood handrail should be sealed to help it maintain its appearance over time. Even after all of that work, a wood handrail runs the risk of warping, scratching, or denting.
Many options for wood handrails come unfinished. While this does mean that you can customize the stain to match existing woodwork or current design, it requires a substantial amount of work. To stain a wood handrail, you should first sand it to ensure there are no blemishes, which creates dust and mess.
For safety, stability, and to be in compliance with ADA standards as well as commercial and residential building codes, a continuous handrail is necessary. In order to make a wood handrail continuous, special joints are needed along with cutting 45-degree angles and matching the cuts to turn a 90-degree corner.
Mixing mineral spirits to oil based polyurethane won't make it any less grain raising. It will just take more coats to achieve the desired finish. Personally I believe a person should thin an oil based polyurethane as little as possible. Applying it by hand I don't thin it at all. I only thin it for spray purposes.
Steve Neul said: The water in the polyurethane raises the grain. It could have been prevented by sealing the wood first with Zinsser Sealcoat however all you have to do is sand the finish smooth and apply more coats. Each time it's sanded between coats the finish will get smoother.