The area on a piece of siding that allows for another piece of siding or trim to be inserted. Course. A course of siding refers to one row of siding that runs the length of an exterior wall. Multiple “courses” of siding are used to fill up an exterior wall. Drip Cap
Single Coursing – Single layer of siding shingles applied with a small overlap along the edge of the course below. Single Wall Siding – Exterior wall siding that is not applied over sheathing. Snaplock Punch Scoring – Scratching the surface of a siding panel at a specific point using a utility knife or other sharp tool. The score mark allows the panel to be bent at an exact location …
Oct 27, 2017 · This application allows for wider weather exposures, and creates deep shadow lines at the butt ends (Double-Coursing, below). Begin with a double underlay course or a single underlay course shimmed out the thickness of a shingle butt with wood lath. This approach to laying shakes and shingles features wide weather exposures and deep shadow lines. The outer …
Underlayment: water-resistive material placed under vinyl siding panels. Utility Trim: a piece of trim used any time the top lock has been removed from the siding, to secure a siding panel. Also referred to as “undersill” or “finish” trim; double utility trim is also available. Water-resistive Barrier: a material applied between the ...
What is Vinyl Siding. There are two ways to answer that question. First, vinyl is the siding material bought more than any other. In a recent year, 27 percent of siding sold was vinyl, according to a nationwide study.
Metal siding lasts 30-35 years, slightly longer than vinyl’s 20-30 years. The average cost for vinyl siding is about $3 per square foot installed; metal siding is about $1 more installed. Vinyl is a better value over its lifespan when the cost of repainting metal siding periodically is considered.
Dutch lap siding was first used by Northern Europeans and brought to the United States, especially the Mid-Atlantic states, during the Colonial period. The profiles are more stylish than clapboard vinyl siding, and they produce more shadowing. However, there are fewer options. Double 4”, 4.5”, 5”. Triple 4”.
Vinyl is affordable: Vinyl siding offers excellent value in the first 25 years when compared with its chief competitors. Fiber cement siding is also good value, catching up to vinyl in about 25 years when vinyl has to be replaced and the fiber cement has another 10 to 25 years of life.
Fiber cement siding is also good value, catching up to vinyl in about 25 years when vinyl has to be replaced and the fiber cement has another 10 to 25 years of life . Wood and cedar catch up between year 35-50 depending on the material used and the cost of frequent repainting or staining.
Vinyl is considered low maintenance because it only needs to be cleaned; fiber cement requires moderate maintenance because it must be caulked and painted at intervals based on the harshness of the climate. Insulated vinyl siding is available; insulated fiber cement is not available.
The cost of full brick is about $9 per square foot while stone costs about $16 per square foot installed. Here are the advantages enjoyed by brick, stone and brick or stone veneer: Brick and stone siding produce a more traditional, elegant look. They provide better insulation and resistance to sound from outside.
Panel Siding – Siding, which comes in sheets, normally 4 feet by 8 feet. Examples of panel siding include Texture 1-11. Because panel siding can be installed quickly, it can be a less expensive option than other types of siding. Plywood siding – Plywood sheets, some with a grooved or decorative outer surface.
Corrugated Siding – Siding made out of aluminum or plastic derivatives having ridges and valleys and is attached to the sides of buildings. Course – A row of panels, one panel wide, running the length of the house from one side to the other or, in the case of vertical siding, from top to bottom.
Asphalt Concrete Primer – Asphalt based primer used to prepare concrete and metal for asphalt sealant. Blistering – Bubbles or pimples in roofing materials. Usually moisture related. In shingles blisters are caused by either moisture under the material or moisture trapped inside the material.
In shingles blisters are caused by either moisture under the material or moisture trapped inside the material. Buckling – When a wrinkle or ripple affects shingles or their underlayments. Closed Cut Valley – A shingle valley installation method where one roof plane’s shingles completely cover the other’s.
Crickets – A peaked water diverter installed behind chimneys and other large roof projections. Effectively diverts water around projections. Cupping – When shingles are improperly installed over an existing roof or are over-exposed, they may form a curl or cup. May also be due to a manufacturing defect.
Deck Armor – Premium breathable roof deck protection. It provides a critical extra layer of protection between your shingles and your roof deck — to help prevent wind-driven rain (or water from other sources) from infiltrating under your shingles and causing damage to your roof structure or to the inside of your home.
Eave – The underside of your roof in the area that extend from the fascia boards to your home’s outside walls. Exposure – The area on any roofing material that is left exposed to the elements. Fascia – The exposed boards you see on the front edges of your roof’s overhangs (eaves).
Backerboard: a flat material used on the face of the house, applied between the studs and the siding (or over existing wall surface), to provide an even surface for installing vinyl siding. Buttlock: the bottom edge of a siding or soffit panel, or accessory piece, opposite the nailing slots, which locks onto the preceding panel.
Fascia: the trim covering the ends of roof rafters. Fascia Board: a board attached to the ends of the rafters between the roofing material and the soffit overhang. Fascia Cap or Cover: the covering around a fascia board.
Miter: to make a diagonal cut, beveled to a specific angle (usually 45°). Sometimes miter cuts are made into an overlapping siding or soffit panel surface, to provide a neater appearance. Nail Hem (or Flange): the section of siding or accessories where the nailing slots are located.
Nail Hem (or Flange): the section of siding or accessories where the nailing slots are located. Nailing Strip: an additional framing member installed to facilitate soffit installation.
Rake (roof): the inclined, usually projecting edge of a sloping roof. Rake (wall): the board or molding placed along the sloping sides of a gable to cover the ends of the siding.
Sealant: any of a variety of compounds used to fill or seal joints in wood, metal, masonry, vinyl, and other materials. Shim: a building material used to even a surface prior to installing vinyl siding.
Panel siding is long, tall boards that come in a variety of textures. This type of siding is commonly used with batten strips, but it can also be used on its own. Explore the versatility of HardiePanel® Vertical Siding in more detail.
Sometimes referred to as the reveal, siding exposure is the visible space between the bottoms of adjacent rows of siding. This term is most frequently used when describing lap siding. Exposure differs from the total height of your siding planks because rows of siding will slightly overlap each other during installation.
Battens are vertical trim strips placed on panel siding at regular intervals to cover joints and create an architectural aesthetic. Battens are a critical part of the farmhouse look.
What is Soffit? The soffit is the underside of any construction element. The word is also used to describe the material used to cover the exposed surface beneath the overhang of a roof. James Hardie’s HardieSoffit® Panels come in a range of textures and venting options, which you can explore here.
Blind nailing is when the fastener drives through the top of the plank, while in face nailing the fastener drives through the overlap at the bottom of the plank. James Hardie recommends blind nailing, but face nailing may be required for certain installations. Now that you can speak like a contractor, find one in your area who can help you get your ...
Technically, the term refers to most horizontal siding installations, with the term originating from the way that some types of planks overlap one another.
Lap siding is one of the most commonly installed siding types in the US . Technically, the term refers to most horizontal siding installations, with the term originating from the way that some types of planks overlap one another.
Unfortunately, vinyl lap siding is usually made up of a few courses molded together, with no backing behind the thin plastic. This can lead to cracks if the vinyl is hit hard enough, or if the material is exposed to cold.
During the first half of the 20th century, constructors only used wood and aluminum sidings to cover the parts of houses, buildings, and warehouses. That was a way to protect them from harsh weather conditions.
Like any other siding, the first reason to pick out this option is your home’s more appealing exterior. It is a cheap way to cover the imperfections of the walls and hide any possible flaws on their surface.
You should consider three vinyl siding size types, including length, width, and thickness. All of them determine the final product features.
Generally speaking, there are not many differences between 4 inches (10 cm) and 5 inches (13 cm) vinyl sidings, and the choice depends on your preferences. You should pick the type that is more appealing to your eye and more suitable for your style.
Nowadays, D4 and D5 are popular in two styles, Dutch Lap and Clapboard.
For ages, people used wooden planks and wooden sidings to protect their homes. This material is too expensive, difficult to clean, and not having a long life span when maintained inappropriately. Therefore, vinyl siding replaced it quickly in many American homes.
As you can see, the differences between 4 inches (10 cm) and 5 inches (13 cm) vinyl sidings are minimal. You can easily decide by looking at the pattern or color as there is no significant difference in installation, endurance, purpose, and price.
The simplest and most common pattern for sidewall shingles and shakes is single coursing. For wider exposures and deeper shadow lines, shingles and shakes can also be installed in double courses. A rustic staggered pattern is also possible.
Karl, I don't think you're doing anything wrong; a 4-inch exposure on an 18-inch single means that you'll have 4 1/2 shingles of exposure going up the roof (or up a wall) before your next shingle is past the head of the very first shingle. That gives a very thick surface indeed. When the whole wall is in place it'll be flat - thick - and probably durable.
Woven outside corners, by design, don't use a corner board. If you want to nail top the woven corners you can do so but I'd hold a board up on the corner to look: you may not like how it appears nor the gaps that will show.