Here are the basic steps:
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Vinyl siding is durable and long-lasting, but it can get cracked or otherwise damaged. You can remove damaged pieces and replace them, but this requires separating the hidden joints that lock the pieces together. Enter the zip tool.
Enter the zip tool. This indispensable tool is little more than a metal bar with a small hook at one end and a bend at just the right angle. It allows you to get under the top and bottom edges of the vinyl siding pieces where the pieces interlock (a design that allows them to resist wind and moisture).
Separate the buttlock joint with downward pressure on the zip tool. Then, slide the tool along the length of the siding panel to release the rest of the joint. Repeat the same process to unlock to top joint holding the damaged panel to the panel above.
Instructions 1 Unlock the Bottom Joint. Starting at the bottom edge of the damaged siding panel, wiggle the curved tip of the zip tool blade under a loose spot at one end ... 2 Unlock the Top Joint. ... 3 Pull the Nails. ... 4 Place Wood Blocks. ... 5 Position the New Panel. ... 6 Nail the New Panel. ... 7 Lock the Panels. ...
Look for a horizontal seam between two courses of vinyl siding. Insert the siding-removal tool where the panels overlap and pull down and out. Use a cat's paw or other small pry bar to pull the nails from the course you need to remove. Pull the piece of vinyl siding downward to disengage it from the course below it.
0:586:42How To Use 2 x 10 to Replace Bottom of Damaged Siding - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipYou've got to be able to put the metal underneath. The existing siding. And then slip the board thatMoreYou've got to be able to put the metal underneath. The existing siding. And then slip the board that you're going to use underneath the metal.
ButtlockButtlock: the bottom edge of a siding or soffit panel, or accessory piece, opposite the nailing slots, which locks onto the preceding panel.
11:3029:45How to install Vinyl Siding - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipThe bottom J channel should be cut and installed first at the ends of the bottom J channel notchesMoreThe bottom J channel should be cut and installed first at the ends of the bottom J channel notches should be cut to accept the tabs on the side J channels.
Most manufacturers produce a starter strip that secures the bottom course of siding to the sheathing and holds it at the proper angle. As shown in the diagram, a wooden spacer can be used to provide the proper angle for the first strip.
Underlayment or weather resistive barrier (WRB) is installed between the siding and the sheathing. This can be tar paper or a house wrap such as HardieWrap® or Tyvek HomeWrap®. HardieWrap® is great for keeping water out and at the same time letting water vapor escape from the house.
Vinyl siding undersill trim helps secure siding securely to your home. It goes around windows, doors and eaves. You must use these trim pieces on every window that sits above the ground line. These trim pieces hide the top edge of your vinyl siding.
0:021:06VSI Best Practices -- Finishing at the Top of the Wall - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipYou might have to shim the last piece or use a double utility trim to maintain the proper angle forMoreYou might have to shim the last piece or use a double utility trim to maintain the proper angle for the face of the panel. For more information consult via sais vinyl siding installation manual.
Cellwood Vinyl Finish Trim, also known as Undersill Trim, is used to hold the top row of siding in place, near the roof line or under windows. It is a necessary accessory for any siding job.
When you put in a vinyl window should a drip cap always be used? My buddy never uses one, and claims water never gets in under the window." Well Bill, you win. Yes you should always put a flashing over the top of a window, called a Drip Cap.
3:334:40Vinyl Siding - J channel Options - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipNow where you have to use it as a starter strip is with vertical siding so eric's going to show thatMoreNow where you have to use it as a starter strip is with vertical siding so eric's going to show that to you we have a piece of board and batten very common.
When replacing vinyl siding, it can be difficult to find matching material because siding manufacturers regularly change offerings and discontinue older styles and colors. It's best if you have some spare material left over from the original siding installation.
Secure the buttlock of the upper panel to the top edge of the new panel, using the zip tool. Grab the lip of the buttlock with the tool and pull it over the new panel's locking edge. At the same time, use your other hand to push from the outside of the upper panel toward the wall to snap the buttlock into place. Work from one end of the new panel to the other, interlocking the entire top edge.
Separate the buttlock joint with downward pressure on the zip tool. Then, slide the tool along the length of the siding panel to release the rest of the joint.
Vinyl siding is durable and long-lasting, but it can get cracked or otherwise damaged. You can remove damaged pieces and replace them, but this requires separating the hidden joints that lock the pieces together.
Put a piece of tar paper or aluminum flashing under the joint, caulk the end of the prior piece, then push the new piece against it and wipe off the excess caulk.
Simply put, it's masonite, which if you go back with the same material, you are going to have the same problem again in the not too distant future.
More flexible siding materials can sometimes be lifted enough to get the nail heads under the course above, but hardiplank is way too rigid for that.
The Hardiplank won't have the tendency to absorb moisture & swell like masonite would, though, so it's not as critical. I ripped down a strip from the old siding to act as a spacer at the bottom. That was how the original installation was handled. Your method would work fine, too.
Hardiplank can be bought painted, although the Borg might only have primed in stock. I don't know, but, would doubt the backs are primed. They weren't on the masonite I bought.
Re: caulking. Don't use latex caulk, at least with Hardiplank.
I used PT lattice - cheap and effective. If you are going into masonry or otherwise using large diameter nails, predrill the lattice - it will split if not predrilled.