The first big step in weatherproofing your windows is to place weatherstripping on them. Buy weatherstripping that is self-adhesive for easy installation. This will be fitted around the window seams to stop as much transfer between the inside and outside air as possible. Adding weatherstripping means you won’t be able to open your windows but it's unlikely you will be doing this if you have central heat and air anyway. So, once you have purchased a product of your choosing, go around your home and put it on every window, even in the basement. However, as good as weatherstripping is, it can only do a limited job. If you don’t have double pane windows, you’ll need to do more to weatherproof your window properly.
These steps are something you will need to repeat every winter. You shouldn’t attempt to re-use your weatherstripping or window plastic; throw them away every spring when you unseal the house. This means you need to spend money every fall but this will be more than offset by the amount you’ll save on heating bills.
Some people put off weatherproofing windows because they are not handy. However, there are many things you can do that require little craftsmanship.
One cheap and easy way to weatherproof your windows is to use sealant foam. Applied in the same fashion as caulk, use it generously around the perimeter of the interior window.
In terms of weatherproofing durability, you get what you pay for. If you take a cheap and straightforward approach, it likely will not last long.
Once you have the metal or vinyl v-strips, fasten the self-adhesive vinyl foam to the corners of the underside of the window.
As it can get pretty chilly in the Bay Area during the colder months, SF Gate offer some weatherproofing tips for old windows. Weatherproofing can not only help you warm your home by restricting unwanted drafts but also help you save energy and reduce overall cost in utility bill and home improvements.
Slide the support cables through the bottom of the clamps. If you need to run your cables through a hook on your bay window’s roof, do so now. If the cables are already on your bay window, you don’t need to do anything. Run your first cable through the bottom of the cable clamp above it. Pull it through and let it hang. Repeat this process with your second cable on the other cable clamp.
Slide shims into any openings around the window frame to keep it level. On the inside of your window, hold a spirit level against the sides and roof of the window. Inspect the opening between the wall and the window to ensure the space is even on each side. If any sides are not, slide wood shims between the window and the wall to artificially push on a side of the window and keep it even.
Typically, the cables go 16–24 inches (41–61 cm) above the bay window .
You can use a nail gun and framing nails instead if you prefer. Nails tend to be a little weaker than wood screws, but this is only a temporary measure so it may not matter if the window isn’t particularly big or heavy.
Once the window is lined up, on the inside of the window, drill the top of the bay window into the joist above it. Place 1 screw every 4–5 inches (10–13 cm). Then, repeat this process on the bottom to hold the bay window temporarily in place while you work.
Use your chisel, a rubber mallet, and a crowbar to peel the frame out of the wall. This may take 30-45 minutes depending on how strong the window frame is here. Be ready to make a bit of a mess and put some effort in!
Put on some gloves, protective eyewear, and a dust mask. Press the tabs in on the top of the glass pane and lower the pane towards you. Pull the window out of the frame once you’re holding it perpendicular to the frame.