Here are a few helpful tricks that will help you get the most out of using your vertislicer:
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One activity that golf courses undertake on greens is a process called “Verticutting”. This may also be called “Vertical Mowing”. Unlike regular greens mowing, where the blades are horizontal to the putting surface, verticut blades are vertical to the greens.
Gus Nelson, CGCS, at San Clemente (Calif.) Municipal Golf Course, verticuts several times a year depending on the growth of the turfgrass, but mainly it’s during the growth cycles of spring and fall. Johnson verticuts every 10 days to two weeks and follows that with regular mowing and rolling.
David Ramirez, Ariens Co. manager of product training, says a light, frequent verticutting will provide enough venting to alleviate the need for superintendents and maintenance crews to dethatch. The key word, though, is frequent. “If you wait too long, then the need for dethatching is necessary,” Ramirez explains.
In conclusion, verticutting of greens is a time-tested practice that encourages plant growth, dense turf and smoother greens. If you have any questions about verticutting or any other maintenance topic, please contact your Golf Course Superintendent.
regular verti-cutting; I would suggest twice a month between April and September. Verti-cutting does exactly what it says, it cuts vertically through the turf surface to slice up lateral growth and tease up the turf prior to mowing, which is usually carried out straight after a verti-cut operation.
The primary difference is that the verticut is just going to lightly tickle the soil down below, while dethatching will aggressively dig into the root system and pull out thatch.
One activity that golf courses undertake on greens is a process called “Verticutting”. This may also be called “Vertical Mowing”. Unlike regular greens mowing, where the blades are horizontal to the putting surface, verticut blades are vertical to the greens.
“The general rule of thumb is to verticut as often as recovery and improved turf health are noted,” he says. “I do it every 10 days in some areas of the course, but it might be wise to limit verticutting to two or three times a year in other areas.” Verticutting methods vary.
After you have finished using the Verticutter, it is time to clear out the rests of thatch from the lawn. The thatch will have been pulled to the surface and is easy to pick up and throw away. The easiest way to do so is to use a rake, pushing the debris onto a tarp.
Timing: The verticutter is used after seed is applied. Like aeration, the most favorable seasons to use a verticutter are spring and fall. Grass seed requires time to germinate, and the process requires healthy soil, warmth, and water.
Verticutting also called vertical mowing is a refinement of scarifying, in that it is less aggressive. The blades are finer and are not designed to penetrate as deep as those on a scarifier. Verticutters have more blades (than a scarifier), with the spacings being closer together to leave a finer finish on the lawn.
Core aeration is great for the lawn as it breaks up compaction and helps control thatch. It is not the best practice for seeding. If your main focus is to overseed then verticut as it provides for the best and most even seed bed. Core aeration can be used but verticutting is preferred.
The depth of the blades is typically adjusted 1/64-inch to 1/8-inch below the effective cutting height so that the blades penetrate the turf canopy. The goal is to thin the turf canopy while maintaining a proper balance of leaf growth and turf density.
Fall is the time to feed your turf so that it is ready to burst forth with new and strong growth during green-up in early spring. Dr. Gordon Kaufmann, lead turf agronomist for Grigg and Brandt, says that fall fertilization can accelerate green-up and turfgrass vigor in the spring.
0.125-inchToday's putting greens typically are maintained at or below a 0.125-inch height of cut – i.e., one eighth of an inch. To better appreciate how low that really is, two quarters stacked on top of each other would be slightly higher than 0.125 inch.
To balance green speed and turf health, it is recommended to mow as high as possible to achieve the desired green speed, which preserves extra leaf material for photosynthesis and growth. Increasing mowing frequency is another common method to improve surface quality and increase green speed.
Verticutting also called vertical mowing is a refinement of scarifying, in that it is less aggressive. The blades are finer and are not designed to penetrate as deep as those on a scarifier. Verticutters have more blades (than a scarifier), with the spacings being closer together to leave a finer finish on the lawn.
Both scarifying and dethatching involve dethatching. To keep them separate in your head just remember that scarifying is a deeper, more aggressive process, while dethatching is a fairly shallow, gentle process. There are many different makes and models of dethatchers.
A dethatcher is a light-duty tool used to remove thatch that is up to 1/2-inch thick. A power rake is a heavy-duty garden tool primarily used by professional landscapers to lift and remove thatch that exceeds 1/2 inch in thickness.
Dethatching is mostly used to remove thatch from your lawn while scarifying includes thatch removal as well as removing deeper debris. For quick lawn care, dethatch your lawn. For intense and longer-lasting lawn care, scarify your lawn.
A popular job for college students during the summer is to work with the maintenance crew at a golf course. A very physical job which of course includes a lot of mowing. The primary mowing is done with a hand mower. The tee boxes and the greens are mowed this way. The greens specifically are...
3mm sounds good if you have a thatch issue. I would start with 1-2mm if you don't have a thatch issue. Like groomers, you are just trying to stand up some of the horizontal bentgrass.
The Maredo GT230 HiSpeed-Corer works to remove thatch by small hollow tines punching to a depth of up to 1” (25mm). These holes are so small that play can resume almost immediately. It works as fast as mowing and produces approximately 4 million holes per hour, thus taking about 4 hours to do a 18-hole course at mowing speed. These holes are typically gone within 2–3 days. Meanwhile, the GreenTek Thatch-Away Supa-System Verticutter removes thatch with its 1.5mm tungsten tip blades spaced 10mm apart. The verticutter cassette slits and vacuums up an incredible amount of thatch with a strong draught created by the fin on the side of the blade and air inlet slots in the unit chassis. The working depths are between 2mm above ground level and 5mm below the surface. The best surface is achieved at a height of ground level to 1mm below the surface, as this removes the flat growth and some fibre on a regular basis without affecting the green’s playing surface. To know more about the Maredo GT230 HiSpeed-Corer, please contact Hamid Sonnosi ( [email protected]) or Jimm Leong ( [email protected])
The Compost De-Thatcher is a high-quality fertiliser made of a unique blend of slow-releasing nitrogen, naturally occurring soil digesting microbes, and powerful enzymes that work in breaking down components of organic matter in thatch . These elements work together to break down the high ratio of lignin and cellulose fibres in turfs. Additionally, the specific microbes formulated into the Compost De-Thatcher produce significant quantities of protease and cellulase that digest protein found in thatch and other organic compounds. Bacillus is also among the beneficial bacteria which produces cellulase, amylases, lipases, xylanases, and pectinases. They aid in breaking down organic matter into valuable nutrients. The right fertiliser can maintain the right amount of thatch, keeping your overall golf course healthy. Interested to know more about how the Compost De-Thatcher can benefit your golf course? Please contact Putra Fajar ([email protected]) for more details.
To ensure that stem growth is not excessive, nitrogen inputs can be evaluated to decide on the delivery of nutrients in a much more controlled manner. This can be done by spoon-feeding the greens with liquid fertilisers, rather than applying nitrogen-rich granular fertiliser (especially fast release nitrogen, and not using controlled-release or slow-release fertilizer). Applying nitrogen-rich granular fertiliser would only create growth spikes, resulting in excessive shoot growth and thus exacerbating the problem.
Footprinting on the golf course might even be more noticeable, thereby causing unevenness on the ground. Moreover, excessive thatch and organic matter will affect the growth of grass there. It will cause the greens to be saturated in the upper root-zone, reducing oxygen uptake and causing root decline. In other words, it will affect the firmness of ...
Thatch refers to the layer of organic matter that is accumulated below the turf. It is a combination of dead and living plant matter which include roots, stolon, shoots, stems and leaf tissues. A thatched turf will cause the ground ...
It is done when the soil beneath the surface of the greens has become compact, which could suffocate the grass roots. In other words, aeration is essential to break the thatch layer on your turf. This will aid the movement of important nutrients within the thatch and soil zones, while also creating deeper root systems.
One of the main contributors to thatch is shoot and stem growth. To ensure that stem growth is not excessive, nitrogen inputs can be evaluated to decide on the delivery of nutrients in a much more controlled manner.
In conclusion, verticutting of greens is a time-tested practice that encourages plant growth, dense turf and smoother greens.
Occasionally, verticut blades are set lower when thatch removal is desired. When turf renovation is desired, such as when attempting to introduce new seed, verticut blades are set very deep. In conclusion, verticutting of greens is a time-tested practice that encourages plant growth, dense turf and smoother greens. If you have any questions about verticutting or any other maintenance topic, please contact your Golf Course Superintendent.
Making our greens putt true. One activity that golf courses undertake on greens is a process called “Verticutting”. This may also be called “Vertical Mowing”. Unlike regular greens mowing, where the blades are horizontal to the putting surface, verticut blades are vertical to the greens.
The blades then break up the stolons of the plant, allowing the plant to produce more leaves for a denser turf. Older, dying leaf material is pulled up, giving room for new leaves. Also, the effects of “grain” are reduced. Occasionally, verticut blades are set lower when thatch removal is desired.
Vertical mowing is a maintenance practice periodically performed on greens to accomplish the following objectives:
One of the common myths regarding vertical mowing is that it will increase green speed. Actually, green speeds are typically slower for one to two days following the operation and then return to normal.
Vertical mowing, or verticutting, is the process of mowing turf using a mower fitted with a reel that has short blades on it. The blades cut vertically through the turf canopy to thin it without compromising the leaf growth or turf density.
Verticutting digs deeper than aerators and helps remove excess thatch and organic material around the plant’s crown area.
Most sports fields benefit from annual verticut treatment. The ideal frequency largely depends on the weather and the type and condition of the grass. Some golf courses lightly verticut as frequently as once a week during the growing season.
Cost factors, such as the need for additional equipment and man-hours to undertake the process, are other aspects of verticutting superintendents should consider.
Verticutting is an important turf management tool to reduce thatch, says Tim Haines, golf course superintendent at Binks Forest Golf Club in Wellington, Fla., a KemperSports-managed facility. Thatch ties up chemicals and reduces efficacy, making it difficult to move water into the soil profile. Verticutting helps alleviate those problems, Haines says.
Verticutting is the thinning of turfgrass by blades or wire tines that cut perpendicularly to the soil in a shallow swath or a deep cut. Both methods can promote lateral and vertical grass growth. Yet, a deeper cut removes more material to allow moisture and oxygen to reach the root zone more easily.
Haines believes verticutting improves mowing quality, which, in turn, improves ball roll and speed.
But one of the best weapons superintendents have in their arsenal is verticutting, a process that has gained popularity and now is common throughout the country for all types of turfgrass.
Phipps’ major cost is the equipment needed to perform the task effectively and efficiently.
The frequency of verticutting and the time of year the practice is done can vary according to weather conditions and grass type. Superintendents should consider the turf type they have carefully and avoid stress periods or being too aggressive with depths of cuts at times when recovery would be slow, Haines says. Superintendents should avoid any practice that will stress turf in severe weather, such as prolonged periods of heat or dry conditions. This will avoid making turf more susceptible to disease.
Verticutting also called vertical mowing is simply removing thatch build-up from your lawn by pulling out the dead layer of organic matter that has accumulated allowing your lawn to breathe better. It also helps the grass to better absorb nutrients and moisture. A certain amount of thatch is not harmful, but necessary for a healthy lawn and even provides some cushioning that reduces soil compression from heavy foot traffic, but when it’s too much it becomes harmful. Thatch also allows for easy reproduction of diseases and insects that threaten the health of your lawn. Verticutting is a method that will quickly and effectively remove excess thatch without damaging your lawn.
A verticutter is a landscaping tool with vertically-oriented blades that can safely and efficiently cut into the thatch without damaging the healthy grass blades. It breaks up the layer of thatch and brings it to the surface where you can easily collect and remove it from your lawn.
You can verticut your lawn any time and as often as you think is necessary, but there are certain times when it’s best to verticut. If you walk on your lawn barefoot and it feels spongy, you have thatch build-up and it needs to be removed. It’s best to verticut your lawn once a year to remove thatch before the growing season in the summer or spring. Some lawn grasses like the Bermuda grass and Zoysia require verticutting once a year during the summer.
There’s only one clear difference between verticutting and aeration. Verticutting mostly focuses on dethatching only, but aeration also removes grass so that the remaining grass blades can have more space to breathe. This will give more space for the grass roots to grow for a more stable and established turf. Aeration will help to break up soil compaction and control thatch, but it’s not the best method for seeding. If you want to overseed, verticutting is the best method because it provides an even seedbed.
It’s important to remove the thick layer of thatch on your lawn grass that prevents nutrients and moisture from getting to the roots of your grass which will kill your lawn. Apart from improving and maintaining the overall health of your lawn grass, verticutting by removing thatch, it’s also beneficial in that it:
When you have a build-up of debris and dead grass on your lawn, it can kill your lawn grass which will prevent it from growing green and healthy.
To determine if it’s time to verticut your lawn, feel the state of the thatch, and if it’s ½ inch or thicker, it ’s good to verticut.
In spring and fall we usually use a Graden to do a really aggressive verticut - although I'm not sure exactly what the depth is - and then a core aerate and heavy top dress. We skipped that routine this spring due to heavier than normal ice/winter damage.
Light topdress after. Wet or dry is an issue of time and if you are using baskets. Baskets will pick up most of the debris. Wet with dew, you are going to have more debris to blow off before topdressing. Dry, if you can do it with play, is great.
It's never been done in ten years that the course has been open. So it's safe to say that thatch is an issue. I'm going to go with the 3mm and do a pass, see how it looks and adjust the height of its too deep. Thanks for they reply.
The stolons are particularly problematic, because leaving them in place will promote weed growth and accelerate the process of lawn degradation. This is where it pays to know the difference between verticutting and dethatching.
When most people think “thatch” they think of a layer of clippings from past mowings that gradually builds up, eventually giving the lawn a spongy feel. And many times that is exactly what it is. Other times, however, there is more to the thatch than clippings.
That said, in most cases, you shouldn’t have to use the verticutter more than once a year. However, if your lawn is comprised of a fast-growing grass like Kentucky bluegrass or creeping bentgrass you may have to. Should multiple verticutting sessions be required just try to keep in mind what I said about not using the device during an extremely dry period or on scorching hot days when the sun is beating down.
If left to its own devices this layer of thatch can rob your lawn of nutrients , air and sunshine.
A dethatcher is a serious tool and should only be used when necessary and in the correct manner. It should not be used if the lawn is bone dry or sopping wet because you could wind up doing as much harm to the grass as you do to the thatch. I’d recommend dethatching in the spring. This will give the lawn time to recover before any serious hot, dry weather sets in.
Whether you use a verticutter or dethatcher will depend mostly on the type of thatch you’re dealing with. If it’s a heavy thatch made up mostly of clippings you’ll want to use a dethatcher. If it’s a moderate thatch but includes stolons/runners you’ll want to break out the verticutter. Just make sure that no matter which one you use, that you don’t use it too early or late in the season, under the scorching sun, or when the lawn is dried out or sopping wet.
But the benefits of dethatching don’t stop there. The dethatcher also loosens up the soil a bit enabling it to absorb water and fertilizer more easily. Breaking up the hard soil also helps smooth out the surface, making the lawn feel more pleasant underfoot.
Vertical mowing is a maintenance practice periodically performed on greens to accomplish the following objectives:
One of the common myths regarding vertical mowing is that it will increase green speed. Actually, green speeds are typically slower for one to two days following the operation and then return to normal.