Prepare a foundation for the wall. Normally foundation for concrete or masonry block walls are made out of concrete and should be at least four inches wider than the width of the block. Allow the concrete foundation to acquire strength.
Concrete block: A hollow or solid concrete masonry unit. Larger in size than a concrete brick. Concrete brick: A concrete hollow or solid unit smaller in size than a concrete block.
The concrete that forms the block is called the web. The cavities within the block are called cores. A stretcher block is the common block with ears, or flanges, on the ends. Stretcher blocks make up the middle of a wall between end blocks and corner blocks. Leads are the built-up corners of a wall and are three or four courses high.
Each row of blocks is joined to the adjoining blocks with either type N (above grade) or type S (below grade) mortar. For greatest strength, most concrete block walls are assembled so the vertical joints are offset (staggered) from one course to the next.
The concrete commonly used to make concrete blocks is a mixture of powdered portland cement, water, sand, and gravel. This produces a light gray block with a fine surface texture and a high compressive strength. A typical concrete block weighs 38-43 lb (17.2-19.5 kg).
0:5121:17Setting The First Course Of Blocks - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipBoth sides. But then essentially once you get that first row both sides of the step here. You'llMoreBoth sides. But then essentially once you get that first row both sides of the step here. You'll come over here where it jumps up I'll either probably dig that back out and set one more.
Coping: The materials or masonry units used to form the finished top of a wall, pier, chimney or pilaster to protect the masonry below from water penetration. Coping block: A solid concrete masonry unit intended for use as the top finished course in wall construction. Core: (See “Cell.”)
Concrete masonry unitsConcrete masonry units are colloquially known by many names, most predominately “concrete block”, “cinder block”, “CMU”, or simply “block”.
A course is a layer of the same unit running horizontally in a wall. It can also be defined as a continuous row of any masonry unit such as bricks, concrete masonry units (CMU), stone, shingles, tiles, etc.
3:167:27Concrete Garage Foundations: How We Build Them at Site Preparations ...YouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipSo we fill the cores of the block. With with concrete. And add rebar reinforcement to give your wallMoreSo we fill the cores of the block. With with concrete. And add rebar reinforcement to give your wall extra stability. And prevent any type of movement. There. So once the block is laid.
COPING: The material or masonry units forming a cap or finish on top of a wall, pier, pilaster, chimney, etc. It protects masonry below from penetration of water from above.
masonry walls These are walls made of brick or cement blocks held together with cement mortar and are often plastered with cement plaster on both surfaces. Cement blocks can also be called Concrete Masonry Units or CMUs, and come in a variety of types, including. Solid Concrete Blocks.
Brick slip headers are brick slips which are cut from the short ends of a brick. Headers are generally used and needed when the bond pattern dictates the need for a half brick eg. Flemish Bond. Headers are often used in detailing work and work that requires a half brick profile.
Aerated concrete or 'aircrete' block. ... Hemp block. ... Unfired clay block. ... Insulated concrete form (ICF) blocks.
Cinder blocks are hollow rectangle-shaped structures usually made of concrete and coal cinders which find use in construction sites. Concrete blocks often, on the other hand, are flattened constructs made of steel, wood or cement.
Lintel blocks are U-shaped horizontal masonry units which are placed above the openings. blocks are arranged in a course such that lintel beam can be formed. Lintel beam the wall portion which is above the opening or between two vertical supports.
The guys used a gas-powered mixer to mix sand, water and type-S masonry cement. Then they would shovel the cement in to large tubs for the block la...
From the blueprints, Victor and his crew determined the location of the foundation walls. Next, they would mark out each section and calculate the...
After the guys cleaned the footer with a foxtail brush, they would strike a chalk line.
For each section, Victor’s crew would start at the corners and work their way into the middle. For that reason it was really important that the cor...
Once the corners were in place, Victor’s crew would run a string along the top corner of the block and use that as a guide for the rest of that sec...
Using the chalk line as a reference, the guys laid a bed of mortar and began laying block.Each block was checked for level and that it followed the...
Keeping the corners square is very important, and the guys employed a little trigonometry (3-4-5 Pythagorean triple) to double-check their measurem...
Every 2-3 courses, the guys used wall ties and nails to anchor the block wall to the existing foundation.They would bend a wall tie in place, nail...
It was often necessary to cut the last block of a section or in order to stagger the joints on the next course of block, and they used two differen...
After the first course of block was laid, Victor’s crew used a transit to site a level line at all the corners. To do this, they first setup the tr...
Concrete block. Block shapes and sizes are chosen to match the function of the wall and the configuration of the wall. Most cement block walls will use several different types of blocks, especially stretchers and corner units. Mortar joints.
Updated August 08, 2019. The residential and commercial construction industries make wide use of a form of concrete building material known officially as a concrete masonry unit (CMU). These hollow-core blocks can be made of standard concrete with traditional sand and gravel aggregate held together with Portland cement.
Vertical reinforcement is provided by lengths of steel rebar embedded in wet concrete that is poured into block cavities at prescribed intervals.
Score across the face of the block with a power saw, cutting a line about 1/4 inch deep. Then, use a masonry chisel and hammer to pound along the scored line until the block cleaves along the line. Turn the block over, and repeat the process on the opposite side.
Where a cement block wall will be below grade, such as when serving as a basement wall, it is important that the surface is waterproofed before backfilling with soil. This can be done with a variety of waterproofing membrane products, or with a rubberized brush-on waterproofing material.
Concrete for the foundation can be mixed by hand in a power mixer or mortar box, or it can be ordered from ready-mix sources and delivered by truck.
Step 1: Mix Mortar. The guys used a gas-powered mixer to mix sand, water and type-S masonry cement. Then they would shovel the cement in to large tubs for the block layers. Pro-Tip: Wet the tubs before adding the mortar to help prevent it from drying out.
After the first course of block was laid, Victor’s crew used a transit to site a level line at all the corners. To do this, they first setup the transit in view of all the corners.
Pro-Talk: The bracket for securing a string is called a dogbone or line-stretcher. At times they also used a wooden corner block.
Open end block: A hollow unit, with one or both ends open. Used primarily with reinforced masonry construction. (See “A” block and “H” block.) Parging: (1) A coating of mortar, which may contain dampproofing ingredients, over a surface.
Drip: A groove or slot cut beneath and slightly behind the forward edge of a projecting unit or element, such as a sill, lintel or coping, to cause rainwater to drip off and prevent it from penetrating the wall. Drying shrinkage: The change in linear dimension of a concrete masonry wall or unit due to drying.
Grouting, high lift: The technique of grouting masonry in lifts for the full height of the wall. Grouting, low lift: The technique of grouting as the wall is constructed, usually to scaffold or bond beam height, but not greater than 4 to 6 ft (1,219 to 1,829 mm), depending on code limitations.
Efflorescence: A deposit or encrustation of soluble salts (generally white), that may form on the surface of stone, brick, concrete or mortar when moisture moves through the masonry materials and evaporates on the surface. In new construction, sometimes referred to as new building bloom.
Concrete: A composite material that consists of a water reactive binding medium, water and aggregate (usually a combination of fine aggregate and coarse aggregate) with or without admixtures. In portland cement concrete, the binder is a mixture of portland cement, water and may contain admixtures.
Brick: A solid or hollow manufactured masonry unit of either concrete, clay or stone. Cantilever: A member structurally supported at only one end through a fixed connection. The opposite end has no structural support. Cap block: A solid slab used as a coping unit.
Used as a lintel to support masonry over openings such as doors or windows in lieu of a masonry arch or reinforced masonry lintel. Also used as a shelf to vertically support masonry veneer. Sometimes referred to as a relieving angle. Arch: A vertically curved compressive structural member spanning openings or recesses.
Thinking of building my own garage and have a million questions. Here is my first one, hope its not a stupid one to ask.
All depends what type of flooring it's going to be, example a floor screed will need 100mm hardcore or rejects finish off with pea shingles then a layer of pit sand to protect the dpm + 100 mm concrete on top finish off with 50mm sharp sand floor screed which you can't do in 2 courses of brickwork.
I am no builder, but I have read that it is best practice to finish the top of the concrete foundation 150mm below ground level. I think this is to reduce the action of frost on the concrete.
Cheers guys for the inputs. Masona, from what you say the thickness of the floor can be some 10 inches and then some, so are you saying you have to lay enough courses on the foundations to cover the thickness of the floor if you want it to be roughly level with ground level of the adjacent land?
Cheers guys for the inputs. Masona, from what you say the thickness of the floor can be some 10 inches and then some, so are you saying you have to lay enough courses on the foundations to cover the thickness of the floor if you want it to be roughly level with ground level of the adjacent land?
Thanks for the reply. You're being very patient with my crazy questions.
Thanks for the reply. You're being very patient with my crazy questions.
On small projects, use hand to tools to clear the area of all grass, rocks, trees, shrubs, and old concrete, exposing bare earth. Earth moving equipment speeds up the process, especially for large pours. ...
If the concrete will receive a rough broom finish , no additional finishing may be needed. If the concrete will be smooth toweled or stamped, a steel trowel finish is needed. Let the concrete rest until the surface begins to firm up. Once firm, use a steel trowel to create a smooth, hard and uniform finish.
The most basic type of finish is known as a "broom finish". A special broom is pulled across the concrete surface creating a rough textured surface. Other types of finishes include stamped, textured, or smooth trowel to name a few. Read about types of textured concrete finishes.
The curing process lasts 28 days, with the first 48 hours being the most critical. Apply a liquid chemical curing and sealing compound to help the concrete cure slowly and evenly, which helps reduce cracks, curling, and surface discoloration.
A good quality sealer is always a good idea. Apply a month after the concrete is placed. Exterior concrete sealers can last anywhere from 1 to 5 years, depending primarily on environmental conditions. Occasional soap and water cleaning is also advised to keep your concrete looking its best.
A good quality sealer is always a good idea.
If you're using bagged concrete purchased at a home center, mix the concrete with water according to the package instructions. For small slabs, you can use a wheel barrow and shovel, but renting a concrete mixer can make the process easier. If your concrete arrives in a ready mix truck, the drum on the back of the truck will be spinning to keep ...
There are many different varieties of concrete blocks used for modern construction. You'll typically use standard 8" units, which will create the bulk of the foundation. Other types you might consider are single and double corner units, which provide a smooth square or rounded corner.
Plan and section off the corners. Before you begin laying the blocks, visualize all the corners of your frame. Section off the corners with wooden stakes. Use a cord or string to tie off exactly where the corners’ edges will be. Attach a cord or string to the wooden stake used to mark the corners.
Footing should be poured twice as deep as the thickness of the wall and twice as wide. If you're using standard blocks (8"), then your footing should be at least 16" wide.
Sash blocks can be used when you want to create casement windows with an opening. Put header blocks at the top of a wall if you need to create space for roof supports or other construction supports. You can buy specialty blocks or even customize your building blocks to add a personal touch to your project. ...
Concrete masonry is used to construct various foundation wall types, including full basement walls, crawlspace walls, stem walls and piers. Concrete masonry is well suited for below grade applications, because of its strength, durability, economy, and resistance to fire, insects and noise. The modular nature of concrete masonry allows floor plan ...
Control joints are not typically used in foundation walls due to concerns with waterproofing the joint and the fact that shrinkage is less significant in below grade walls due to relatively constant temperature and moisture conditions.
Footings lie under the basement, crawlspace or stem wall and transfer structural loads from the building to the supporting soil. Footings are typically cast-in-place concrete, placed beneath the frost depth to prevent damage resulting from heaving caused by freezing of water in the soil.
Similarly, heavy equipment, such as bulldozers or cranes, should not be operated over the backfill during construction unless the basement walls are appropriately designed for the higher resulting loads.
Stemwalls are typically insulated on the exterior of the masonry. If insulated on the interior, it is important to place insulation in the joint between the slab edge and the foundation wall to avoid thermal bridging. A stemwall with brick ledge is shown in Figure 6.