· This week we build a medieval crossbow out of some scrap spring steel and a small off cut of oak. The project took a day and half to build in the workshop an...
· The draw weight of the crossbow is around 100-110 lbs, co... Full video of making late 12th century crossbow. All the parts are handmade, using only hand tools. The draw …
· Step 1. Use these dimensions in this diagram as you cut the body of the crossbow. With the above diagram as a guide, use the jigsaw to cut out the body of the crossbow from the …
Step 1: Materials Needed. Materials: Although materials were provided, anybody can build this project for about $10. With a little planning ahead actually it can be made for free as all the …
The Romans invented the crossbow, but after this promising start, it disappeared from most Western armories. Nearly 700 years later, Europeans rediscovered the technology—and it became a game changer. Unlike longbows, which required years of practice to use effectively, crossbows could be used immediately.
Drill two 3/16-inch holes in the bow (the 30-inch-long dowel), each about ½-inch from one end. Insert the bow into the ½-inch-diameter hole in the crossbow body, until it is centered halfway.
Attach the mason twine to the bow, inserting its ends through the holes in the bow and tying it off securely .
The results were impressive: Medieval Italian crossbows, weighing a very hefty 18 pounds, could shoot ¼-pound arrows capable of penetrating armor at a range of 100 yards.
With crossbows, an iron lever called a “goat’s foot” allowed a bowman to apply leverage, which made it much easier to pull back and cock the heavy bowstring. This made crossbows easy to use. Too easy, according to medieval European government and religious officials.
One 2-by-4 piece of wood, 17 inches long
The crossbow isn’t hard to make, especially if you have access to power tools such as a jigsaw and power drill. Even if all you have are simple hand tools, you can get the job done. WARNING: You’re building a device that shoots a projectile. Using it safely is the most important part of the project.
Ideally some hard wood was used for the Body of the Crossbow sometimes called the “Tiller”. Alternately it can be made of layers of wood or plywood glued together. Some nice designs and figuring can be obtained that way. I used a piece of hard pine that was actually a 2X4 clean, and fairly free of knots or defects.
Although this write-up seems elaborate, the project can be entirely made in one evening with some preparation. I used the tools from TechShop, Band saw, laser cutter, drum sander, belt sander, thickness planer, jointer, chop saw, scroll saw, drill press, cordless drill, Router table, hand router and an assortment of Dremel tools and attachments for sanding and deburring. Also some hand tools, Philips head screwdriver, various clamps for gluing and positioning, some sand paper, pliers, wire cutters, various files and rasps for shaping wood, template router bit, Forstner bits, and wood drills matching the nails and screws.
Arm the crossbow and put a block of wood between the tiller and the trigger. This will prevent from releasing the mechanism as you fit the bolt. Actually there was a safety installed on some crossbows which consisted of a small shaped block of wood attached to the tiller with a string.
Some non metal Nuts were reinforced inside with a metal pin or wedge perpendicular to the axis to protect from wear from the bolt shaft and trigger release. There is some debate as where the notches for the string and trigger should go, a good rule is that they are cut in line with the center pin. Sometimes the draw string is slightly forward (about 2 degrees) of the center line which makes for a very touchy release. The nut is sitting slightly recessed down from the top surface of the crossbow, just a touch, so the arrow has less friction on takeoff and also will set loose on a straight path being caught by the string squarely on the back of the bolt shaft.
The Arrows (Bolts) were no longer than 12” and between 7/16 to ½ in thickness.
While at the drill press drill the two front holes used for the Bow and lashing. It is easier now when the stock is still a square piece of lumber, and the holes resulting are perpendicular.
You can also free hand draw the design of your choice, you cannot go wrong, as crossbows were made in all kinds of sizes and shapes. Only the mechanism principles matter, the rest is just “stile”. Just try to stay symmetric. A search on the internet will reveal hundreds of designs.
I find it easiest to make the groove by marking it's limits carefully and chiseling away wood (with a wide forming chisel) from outside of the groove towards the inside carefully, until the bolt groove is roughly formed. After this the same chisel or a small knife can be used to remove any irregularities.
Next round the edges of the bridle hole facing the opening for the bow. This is important to reduce wear and tear on the bridle threads:
Proceed by making sawcuts from top and bottom at regular intervals. Make sure the cuts do not reach the pencil marks. Make the cuts closer where the pencil line moves up or down agressively . This prevents accidentally splitting away too much wood during next phase.
Now you can rasp the hole slightly oval (see below) to make inserting the (bridle) thread easier. Whether this is necessary depends on how big hole you drilled in the first place, as well as how much thread you intend to insert.
NOTE: You should have the nut, trigger and lockplates ready before making the stock.
Now you can smoothen the surface with a spokeshave or a file, although it's not strictly necessary at this point: