· Drag radials are an appealing choice for drivers who own street cars that every so often hit up the local strip. They're also attractive for anyone running high horsepower in a cruiser seeking a straight line traction advantage that's often hard to find with a traditional radial performance tire. Street-legal, DOT-compliant drag radials walk ...
A dragstrip is a facility for conducting automobile and motorcycle acceleration events such as drag racing. Although a quarter mile (1320 feet, 402 m) is the best known measure for a drag track, many tracks are eighth mile (201 m) tracks, and the premiere classes will run 1,000 foot (304.8 m) races. The race is begun from a standing start which ...
And turning a street, be it a piece asphalt or concrete, into a sticky drag strip takes time, and patience, and money. When professionals and amateurs want to set a fast time, they take it to …
· Additional Safety Equipment. If you do have a Mazdaspeed capable of 11’s or faster, then you will be required to do a lot more to the car in order to safely run. I would double …
1:516:48Beginners Drag Racing Tips (Part 1): What You Need to Know Before ...YouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipIf you're going to the drag strip for the first time I highly recommend you just run on your streetMoreIf you're going to the drag strip for the first time I highly recommend you just run on your street tires.
In the simplest terms, drag racing is a sport where two vehicles compete side-by-side in an acceleration contest. Both drivers race in a straight line from a standing start to a finish line 1/8 mile away. The first to cross the finish line wins the race. Competition is part driver and part machine.
1) The friction of the air in front of the car Anything that moves forward has to push air out of the way. That air pushes backward on the car, resulting in drag, diminishing the car's top speed. (This is the idea behind Elon Musk's Hyperloop.
These mandate that vehicles competing in drag racing fit certain safety gear depending on quarter-mile times and trap speeds. The faster you go, the more safety measures are required.
The word 'drag' is believed to have theatrical origins too. The dresses men wore to play female characters would drag along the floor. Actors playing female parts because there were no actresses around isn't exactly in the spirit of what we call drag today - but it was a start.
0:1510:01Wings and Spoilers; Lift and Drag | How It Works - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipProbably the most important aerodynamic factor that we have to consider drag is basically a thingsMoreProbably the most important aerodynamic factor that we have to consider drag is basically a things velocity squared multiplied by its drag coefficient.
drag racing, form of motor racing that originated in the United States and in which two contestants race from a standing start side by side on a drag strip—a flat, straight course, most commonly 1/4 mile (0.4 km) long.
If you are going to be stock car racing, make sure you remember safety first, and then use these drag racing tips and techniques:Look through As Far Ahead As Possible: ... The Burnout: ... Tire Pressure: ... Brake with Your Left Foot: ... Pre Race Prep: ... Don't Steer, Brake, and Accelerate at the Same Time: ... Visit Roadrunner Performance.
An essential part of drag racing is the tuning of your car. Yes, you need the skills, but you are expected to win in a car that is out of tune; no amount of talent or skill will help you. Some will say in drag racing, and it's 80% tuning and 20% skill. To have a quick start, your air to fuel ratio needs to be perfect.
Additionally, they wouldn't be allowed to compete if they could do a quarter-mile quicker than 9.99 seconds or had a trap speed over 135 mph. As a result, the Dodge Challenger SRT Demon – capable of a 9.65-second quarter mile @ 140 mph – was technically banned from NHRA-sanctioned events.
NHRA cuts race distance to 1000 feet: Move made to enhance safety after Kalitta's death. The NHRA has cut the race distance for its Top Fuel and Funny Car classes to 1000 feet--320 feet short of a quarter-mile--as a safety measure in the wake of the death of racer Scott Kalitta nearly two weeks ago.
Traditionally, a drag strip is 1,320 feet, which equals a quarter-mile. (One mile equals 5,280 feet.) Many classes in NHRA drag racing—actually, all but the Top Fuel and Funny Car classes—still compete on a quarter-mile course.
A dragstrip is a straight, purpose-built racetrack, typically an eighth, ten feet longer than three-sixteenths, or a quarter of a mile long (660/1,000/1320 feet, 201/304.8/402 m), with an additional shutdown area to allow vehicles room to stop after crossing the finish line. Common features also include a 'water box' where vehicles ...
Although a quarter mile (1320 feet, 402 m) is the best known measure for a drag track, many tracks are eighth mile (201 m) tracks, and the premiere classes will run 1,000 foot (304.8 m) races. The race is begun from a standing start which allows three factors to affect the outcome of the race: reaction time, power/weight ratio, and traction.
These can be found in the applicable governing body's rule book. Most rules do not apply until the vehicle exceeds a specified time, such as 10.99 seconds.
This allows anyone with a regular production vehicle to take part for very little cost, and encourages participation of many people who cannot afford a proper racing vehicle. The grassroots efforts are primarily bracket racing cars. Many classes allow drivers to drive their street cars and participate in an event.
A drag race is a competition between two vehicles racing side by side in a straight line for a distance of a quarter-mile (sometimes it’s an eighth-mile), held on a monitored drag strip/racetrack – and in most scenarios, whoever makes it to the finish line first wins.
The length of a drag racing track is, as you can probably guess, a quarter-mile, or 1,320 feet, with each lane measuring 30 feet wide. Here are the various components of the track:
As you creep up to the staged beams, or starting line, you’ll see these lights. From top to bottom, here’s what each represents: Full Tree: On this configuration, three amber lights will flash consecutively for five-tenths of a second apart, with a green starting light five-tenths later. A perfect reaction time on a Full Tree is .000.
One form of drag racing you’ve probably heard of is E.T. bracket racing, a more handicapped version which puts two vehicles of varying performance levels against one another on a more “even” playing field. Essentially, both vehicle’s elapsed times are compared, then the slower car is given a head start that’s equal to the difference of the two.
When professionals and amateurs want to set a fast time, they take it to a prepared piece of street, called a drag strip. In drag racing, “traction leads to action.”. It doesn’t matter how much power you have if you can’t put it to work.
In 2013, a drag car with radial tires ran a 3.99-second elapsed time in the eighth-mile, which was a big deal. In 2017, cars were in the 3.8-second range, and last year a car ran in the 3.5-second range. However, all of this track prep isn’t cheap. When Daniel Pharris set a new radial world record of 3.578 seconds at 214 mph in 2019, it took 10 barrels of traction compound, four sets of rotator tires, two sets of skid rubbers and hundreds of man hours at a cost of $15,000. If you want to turn a street into a strip, that's what it takes.
Before 2010, most racing facilities owned a tire dragger, a machine that uses old drag slick tire segments behind a big tractor that applies pressure while dragging. They take off high spots and spread the rubber to low spots.
There are three main components: cleaning, rubber and glue. First, the track surface needs to be scraped; it should be done after every event, according to Mass Traction, a consulting company specializing in track prep for races and commercials.
And putting rubber on a concrete track is different than putting rubber on an asphalt track. After the rubberization of the track, glue comes next. It’s the difference between a good racing surface and a great one, says Drag Racing Online. There are different brands and grades, and they can be combined or diluted.
For races with radial tires, it can go higher. There are a few issues with the traction surface manager, as some traction masters say it’s only measuring the upper glued surface. And since track surface temps vary so much, readings will, too.
Despite what the Fast and Furious franchise would teach you, you can't just drag race properly (or safely), on any street in the county. And turning a street, be it a piece asphalt or concrete, into a sticky drag strip takes time, and patience, and money.
Safety requirements are broken down into three basic categories: How quick your car is (elapsed time), how fast your car is (trap speed), and what specific modifications you’ve made (things like adding an aftermarket supercharger, turbo, or nitrous system). The main criteria is elapsed time, and for each level of required equipment, you’ll see a break point for both quarter mile and eighth mile ET. The rules are divided up that way in order to make sure that cars running the shorter track length but accelerate just as hard as their quarter mile cousins have similar levels of safety equipment. Each level builds on the previous requirements unless otherwise noted, and please keep in mind that this isn’t the ultimate authority to what’s allowed or required - consult the NHRA rules and your local track officials if you’re in doubt
Some tracks will have specific additional rules - in some places, all drivers will be required to wear a helmet, no matter how slow their car is , and you may also find tracks that prohibit anything but plain water in your cooling system, so check if you aren’t sure.
Drag Slicks - If you’re running quicker than 14-flat in a RWD car and running slicks, you’ll need a driveshaft loop. Tires with DOT approval for street use don’t trigger this requirement until you go quicker than 11.50, as mentioned above.
Here’s the part that trips people up; once you start modifying your car with speed parts, an eagle-eyed tech inspector may find certain changes trigger additional safety rules. For the most part, as factory cars have gotten quicker and quicker over the years, drag racing sanctioning bodies have been pretty lenient about allowing them to run in unmodified form even if they are technically past the ET limits for some requirements. This allows cars like late model ZR1 and Z06 Corvettes, Nissan GT-Rs, Shelby Mustangs, and Dodge Hellcats and Demons to pass tech.
Spool - RWD cars with a “locked” differential need aftermarket axles and axle retention devices to go with, regardless of ET.
There is a tradeoff as you go to the larger wheels, and that is something you need to consider for your street machine. A steep-geared drag car can handle 30-inch tires, but throw those on a car with 3.73 gears, and you will know what slow is.
There are two kinds of DOT drag tires; radials and bias-ply construction. Drag radials provide a sturdy sidewall for cornering and ride. They also have less rolling resistance than bias-ply tires. The caveat to a drag radial is the compound.
The Drag Radial on the other hand, with its sticky compound, is rated with a B grade. This is because drag radials are not designed for wet traction, and that is what the DOT traction test is based on.
The bare minimum tread depth is 2/32nds for street use; most drag radials are in the 5/32nds range whereas a true street tire is 10/32nds. Tire compound is a factor, but most DOT track tires use a special compound that is sticky enough for the track and safe enough for driving you home.
When we asked about the life expectancy of drag radials, Robinson’s reply was, “Would that be the first or the third set?” On average, a set of drag radials with a mix of track time and highway miles is between 3,000 and 5,000 miles.
Mickey Thompson suggests the tires be heated to within 15 degrees of the track temperature. Drag tire usually require some level of burnout to heat them up. Again, every brand is different. Mickey Thompson suggests the tires be heated to within 15 degrees of the track temperature.
On average, a set of drag radials with a mix of track time and highway miles is between 3,000 and 5,000 miles. In order to provide the grip, the compound is considerably softer than a stock or even an ultra-high performance street tire. That grip comes at a cost of lifespan.
At the end of the strip, SLOWLY apply the brakes and follow directions away from the track.
Depress the clutch once the car is ready at the starting line.
Once green, move clutch to fully engage, modulating throttle input (gas pedal position) to balance rear wheel spin. Shift appropriately during the proper shift points and move up the gears. At the end of the strip, SLOWLY apply the brakes and follow directions away from the track.
Shifting at the proper shift points are essential and the reader needs to experiment and find the optimal range. This range depends heavily on the particular engine. Proper modulation of the throttle during first gear and a part of second is another important factor that requires trial and error. Perfecting proper shift points and throttle modulation is the key to fast times!
Shift transmission to first gear. Maintain engine revolutions per minute (rpm) to about 50% of the maximum engine range (for example, if red line is at 6500 rpm, maintain at ~3200 rpm). Wait for the signal lights to turn green.
The instructions presented are extremely detrimental to the health of the car. Repeated attempts can cause damage to the transmission or engine or both.
Leaving the starting line on time is critical to successful drag racing. Of course, you want to leave as soon as the light turns green, but no sooner.
Many savvy racers with treaded tires drive around the burnout box to avoid the water puddles completely, and then back up until the rear tires are on wet pavement . This allows them to accomplish a burnout without picking up water in the tire’s treads, and it’s a good idea if you’re not running slicks.
As the water disappears, the tires get warmer and the smoke turns to blue. The amount of blue smoke produced is the determining factor as to when the burnout is complete. When both tires are producing steady and equal plumes of blue smoke, the burnout is done. Both tires are clean and equally hot, which is the goal.
The Burnout. For the bracket racer, burnouts are a method of preparing the tires for maximum traction at the launch. To make a good water burnout, the water sprayed on the track (water box) must be evenly distributed so that both tires have an equal amount of water to spin in, and so both tires exit the water at the same time.
Shorter tires give quicker reaction times because a smaller circumference gives less roll out and a slower ET. Taller tires give slower reaction times because a larger circumference gives more roll out and a faster ET. The same size tire can be made to appear larger or smaller by adjusting the tire pressure.
Drive the rear tires into the burnout box until they are at the back edge of the water, closest to the starting line, and stop there.
Shift your transmission into high gear. You can safely do this before the burnout and reduce the engine wear and tear by making the burnout at a much lower engine speed (4,000 to 5,000 rpm). Remove your foot from the brake pedal.
While it is true that many of these wrecks are due to engine malfunctions such as compressor failure due to over boost or too much nitromethane, quite a few are also due to loss of traction or contact with the track. No matter what the cause, they all happen too fast to do much to mitigate the results, it’s basically just hang on and pray and pop the chute. However, we can make suspension and body improvements and modifications to reduce the chances of crashing and burning. We’ll first take a look at what you can do with the suspension and then move to body mods and add-ons.
This immediate transfer or torque causes the differential housing to want to twist on the lift springs. This causes wheel hop and loss of drive force.
A heavier steering wheel is normally going to be a bigger steering wheel, this means your steering inputs command smaller changes in the position and direction of the front wheels. When going as fast we are on the track, we have the natural inclination to over-correct when the car veers one way or another.
Place your hands on the wheel and turn it back and forth a bit, get the feel of it. Now, move your hands off the steering wheel by about an inch. Now make like you’re giving small steering inputs. If it feels comfortable, spread them a little more.
Rack and pinion steering is more accurate for a couple reasons. A rack and pinion consists of a gear attached to the end of the steering column, a “regular” gear, not a worm gear. This is the pinion gear. The pinion gear rests and rides on the steering rack. The steering rack is basically a bar that runs from one of the rack tube to the other and has notches cut that the pinion gear meshes with to move the rack right and left. These gears mesh together much better than a worm gear and they don’t move against each other the way a worm gear does.
Attached to the end of the steering column inside the gear box is what’s known as a worm gear. As you turn the steering wheel, it meshes with another gear that causes the pitman arm to turn, causing the steering parallelogram to move left or right, directing your car left or right.
A rule of thumb I always follow when building a race car is to replace the bushings and steering components with high quality parts designed for the abuses of racing. This means tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, shock absorbers/MacPherson struts, and anything else I can think of, including the strut bar-the bar or rod extending from the lower control arm to the front bumper mounts. Don’t forget the rear suspension components either.